The brandy vs whiskey debate, the muddle method, and a ritual that defines Wisconsin
No cocktail in America generates more arguments than the Old Fashioned. And no state makes it quite like Wisconsin. If you order an Old Fashioned in New York, you'll get whiskey, bitters, sugar, and a twist — served up, neat, and serious. Order one in Wisconsin and you'll get brandy, muddled fruit, a sugar cube, bitters, and a splash of soda — served in a rocks glass with a cocktail cherry and an orange slice. It's the same drink the way a cheeseburger and a steak are the same animal.
The single most divisive element of the Wisconsin Old Fashioned is the brandy. Purists — usually from outside Wisconsin — insist that an Old Fashioned must contain whiskey. Wisconsin disagrees, and has for over 70 years.
The brandy switch happened in the 1940s, when Wisconsin's German and Scandinavian immigrant communities developed a taste for Korbel brandy, which was distributed through the state's robust liquor network. By the 1960s, the brandy Old Fashioned was the default in most Wisconsin bars. Today, asking for a "whiskey Old Fashioned" in Wisconsin requires a qualifier — the brandy version is simply "an Old Fashioned."
Wisconsin Old Fashioneds are muddled. This means the bartender places a sugar cube, Angostura bitters, an orange slice, and a cherry in the bottom of a glass, then crushes them together with a muddler. Brandy (or whiskey) is added, the glass is filled with ice, and a splash of soda water finishes it.
This is different from the stirred method common in craft cocktail bars, where the ingredients are combined without muddling and served without fruit. The muddled method produces a sweeter, fruitier, more complex drink. It's also more forgiving — the fruit and sugar balance out less-expensive brandy, making even a modest pour taste rich and satisfying.
At Ripsaw Saloon in Prentice, the muddled Old Fashioned is the house standard. The bartenders muddle to order, using fresh fruit and real sugar cubes. No shortcuts, no pre-mix, no simple syrup from a bottle. It's the way it's always been done.
In Wisconsin, ordering an Old Fashioned comes with a follow-up question: "Sweet, sour, or press?" This is a uniquely Wisconsin convention that determines the finish of the drink.
The press Old Fashioned is the one to order if you want to taste the brandy. The sweet version can overwhelm the spirit; the sour can be too sharp. The press lets the brandy shine while still providing the fruit and sugar that make the Wisconsin version distinctive.
In Wisconsin, the Old Fashioned is a weekend cocktail. Friday after work, the bars fill with people ordering their first Old Fashioned of the week. It's a ritual as ingrained as the Friday fish fry. The two go together naturally — a brandy Old Fashioned followed by a plate of beer-battered walleye is the quintessential Wisconsin Friday night.
This ritual extends to the home. Many Wisconsin families have Old Fashioned traditions — a specific recipe, a preferred brandy, a particular glass. The drink is woven into the social fabric of the state in a way that no other cocktail in America can claim.
The Wisconsin Old Fashioned isn't just a regional variation of a classic cocktail. It's a statement of identity. It says: we do things our way here, and we've been doing it this way for generations. The brandy, the muddled fruit, the soda splash — these aren't mistakes or shortcuts. They're choices that reflect Wisconsin's culture, its immigrant history, and its stubborn insistence on doing things the way that tastes best.
Experience the real Wisconsin Old Fashioned at Ripsaw Saloon in Prentice. Plan your Northwoods cocktail tour at Price County Fun.